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Banff Canada is a destination in many bucket lists. As soon as I saw a photo of the Fairmont Banff Springs in a photo describing it as the “castle in the Rockies” I knew it was a place I wanted to visit. The more I studied the area, the more I realized the volume of sites to visit in a close vicinity. Plus, Glacier National Park is only 4 hours away making it a great opportunity for a road trip. Anyone who knows me, realizes I love seeing as much as I can when I’m traveling. So, I decided to take a road trip from Banff National Park to Glacier National Park, including nearby Yoho and Jasper National Park.
Since both work full time, we left for the airport as soon as our shifts for the week were over. We flew Delta from Nashville to Minnesota to Calgary. After an uneventful flight, we hopped in our rental car and made our way to our hotel for the evening. We had booked the Fairmont Palliser in the downtown area for the evening since we had book the chain’s other area hotels for the trip, too.
After we checked in, we hit the sack for an early morning.
We woke up at sunrise to get a full day of events in. When we left the hotel and got on the road, we were surprised to see how smoky the air was.
By the time we reached Calgary, the smoke was the worst we had seen. We stopped at a Safeway for some snacks and drinks for the week before heading back on the road. (Click here to read other tips on visiting the Banff area.)
One of the first things we do when going somewhere new is go to the visitor center. Even though I put a ton of time in research, there could always be closures or better advice, especially with wildfires in the areas. I was given the advice to check out Yoho National Park if I had the time.
Since we were heading towards Lake Louise and check in at our hotel wasn’t for several more hours, we make the decision to see what Yoho was all about. We had bought the whole Gypsy Guide package that included this National Park, too. It was very handy as it gave us directions around Yoho National Park, talked about the history of the area, and told us where to stop.
We had worked up quite an appetite so we stopped at the Lake Louise Village Grill and Bar. The food was not very appetizing but served its purpose.
When we rolled up at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, we were greeted by the valet service as they opened our vehicle doors. We gathered our belongings and were assisted inside to check in. Since we had completed the pre-check in online, we quickly made our way to our lake front view suite. After settling in we wandered around the hotel before calling it an evening. Staying at the Fairmont was wonderful because it made it easy to plan our activities for a few days.
The next morning we woke up very early to be dressed in our wedding attire for our anniversary photo shoot on Moraine Lake.
After that was done and the rain showers cleared up, it was back to the hotel. Chris wanted to relax in the hotel and check out the views from the room. I can’t say that I blame him. I, however, wanted to get out and explore! The hotel offers a hiking tour and the person that signs up first chooses the trail. The trail chosen for the day happened to be Lake Agnes Tea Trail and is one of the most hiked trails in the Banff National Park.
When I got back to the hotel, I took the opportunity to take some photos of the hotel and the grounds before making my way back to the room.
When I got back Chris was sitting by the window with binoculars people watching and looking for wildlife. When I looked back at the photos I noticed I captured him in the window! 🙂
That evening we took the free shuttle bus to the Lake Louise Gondola. We chose the ride and dine package since we were hungry and thought it was a pretty good deal. Many other visitors in the area told us they had seen bears while riding this gondola but despite us looking, we had no luck.
When we reached the top, Chris wanted to hike the Kicking Horse Trail. There were warning signs about entering bear country and the door had a special electric fence around it to prevent bears from getting out. I have to admit I was a tan nervous of the grizzly and black bears so I was talking and singing loud. Chris told me to be quiet and I told him I didn’t want to get eaten by a bear! Haha I explained that I was doing exactly what I was supposed to be doing. We made it almost to the top of the hill before I chickened out and we turned around. However, we did see some wildflower fields and amazing views of the surrounding Lake Louise area.
We ate dinner at the Whitehorn Bistro overlooking the the mountains. I highly recommend the food here as it was some of the most delicious we had on our trip to Banff. I wouldn’t recommend eating outside as when we excited the building there was a strong odor that would have ruined it for us.
Don’t forget to stop at the Wildlife Interpretive Centre before heading back down. There you will find short films and information on animals in the area. The staff are very knowledgeable and answered all of of questions in great details.
We could have chosen a gondola or sky lift to get back down the mountain but since it was chilly outside we decided we would stay warm and chose the gondola again. The views from the Lake Louise Gondola really are spectacular.
That evening when we returned to the hotel, the rain and cold front cleared the smoke enough for us to be able to view the glaciers overlooking Lake Louise for the first time. We sat near the lake by a gas fireplace with other hotel guests chatting about the area and hotel.
We checked out of the hotel by 615 and left Lake Louise on the Icefields Parkway towards Jasper with the Gypsy Guide on the radio. The only problem was we couldn’t see anything! We had been told the best chance of seeing wildlife was to leave early but the fog was so thick we could barely see in front of us and the mountains that were being described were nonexistent.
By the time we reached the Glacier Adventure that we had scheduled for at 11 (and were just over an hour early), it was still foggy. We decided to reschedule the tour for a later time in the day and make our way towards Jasper.
We had just enough time to stop at a few of the places I wanted to see along the way to Jasper (Mistaya Canyon and Athabasca Falls) and have lunch. We noticed the fog was less dense on this side of the park (more of Jasper than Banff). We are in Jasper and then made our way back just in time for the fun ride on the glacier. The fog had completely cleared and we were surprised with beautiful views around every winding curve of the road.
On the way to Banff we stopped at the Vermilion Lakes. We had heard they were a must see when visiting the area. I’m not sure if it was the time of year we were visiting or what but we were very disappointed. There was a film over the water and bugs everywhere. No wildlife to be seen. I’m not really sure why everyone tells people to go there.
While researching the area, I had read that the Mt Norquay area provides a great overlook of the city of Banff. I was nervous to guide Chris up here after the Vermilion Lakes incident but I’m so glad I did. The view was magnificent! And free! Plus, if you want to see those lakes I speak of, there’s of view of them from there, too! 😉
We had been driving for hours and Chris was ready to settle down for the evening. I, however, had one more trick up my sleeve! The hotel that had lured me to the area has an overlook called “Surprise Corner” that I wanted him to see before we checked in. So, I guided him down the “wrong” road (Tunnel Mountain Drive) until we came up on the view of this “castle in the Rockies” that was the hotel of my dreams!!! It was the perfect moment to conjure up some energy before we made our way to the actual correct road to the hotel.
The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel is everything you have ever hoped for and more. I loved my stay here and I didn’t even book the most expensive room! I will be posting more on these hotels soon so stay tuned!
Like usual, we were on the road early. This time I drove so that Chris could sleep since it was all my idea to go to Moraine Lake again. I wanted to see sunrise on a sunny morning and I knew the forecast was looking good for an amazingly beautiful, smoke free view.
I wasn’t disappointed. The sunrise was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen in my entire life. The water really is a deep aqua. The sun reaches the mountains to the right first and then move leftward.
Since it is such a popular place for sunrise photos and time lapses, you must go early for a parking spot and set up. Remember to find the most forward area as someone will move in front of you. There were so many people there. I waited patiently 45 minutes for a spot to open up before I moved into a great spot. While I switched from my main camera to a quick cell phone shot, someone asked if they could take a photo. Of course, I said yes. But, the brat just stayed in my spot and didn’t move! I wanted to push her off the cliff but since I would rather work at a prison instead of live in one I decided against that! Just treat others like you would want to be treated! I noticed as I was leaving that there was no one on the left side of the lake. That’s where I would go if I had a next time.
Next, we went to Johnston Canyon. The trail to the Upper Falls and back is about 3 miles. Anyone can do this trail that I highly recommend. I will post more about it soon. But, here’s a picture for now.
On the way back into Banff we stopped at the Cave and Basin National Park. If you have a season pass for Canada’s national parks you can get in for free. There is a lot of information on the early area and how the first national park in Canada was found. There is a tunnel to walk through until you reach the inside of the sulfur-like smelling hot spring. It may not smell very good, but it was very pretty. I was surprised that not many people were visiting.
On the outside is where the special species of snails can be found. The Banff Springs snails can only be found here and no where else in the world. I had trouble finding them at first. Of course, I was looking for some big snail. I had to ask for help and a staff member pointed to some of the bacteria on top of the water. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the snails just smaller than the size of a pencil eraser moving on top of the bacteria. There is a relationship between the bacteria and the snails in which they both need each other to survive.
We went back to the Fairmont Banff Springs for lunch overlooking the amazing views while the little squirrel animals ran in and out entertaining us. The food and service was great. Afterward, we took the history tour of the hotel that is offered for the guests only to learn more about it. If you stay here I highly encourage it as there are many stories we never would have heard (offered at 1:00 daily but check to be sure).
We decided to take a nap after the tour and a couple hours later we woke up to the worst smoke we had seen yet. We thought the fires were nearby it was so bad! We were told the winds had shifted and it would be that way until the first snow came unfortunately. We went for dinner at the Saltlik which was highly recommended. I would do my best to avoid it if I was you. It was so bad that neither of us could eat the food and it was quite expensive. Very disappointing.
For dessert, we went to the Chocolate Factory for Bear Claws and ice cream (same ice cream as the nearby ice cream place).
At sunset we drove the scenic 15 mile scenic Lake Minnewanka Loop looking for wildlife. In the past, the area was known for lots of wildlife, especially bear because of the trash in the area. Unfortunately, we did not see any wildlife. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped for a quick photo op with the Banff sign.
In researching this trip I had a great deal of difficulty trying to locate a rental car that would allow me to cross the border for a one way rental. Most of the rental car contracts had clauses that prohibited crossing the border. I didn’t want to take any chances so I started looking into what my other options were. I quickly realized my only other option was AM/PM Limo Services. They have a shuttle services that picks up people at the Calgary airport and transports them to the East Glacier Village area which happens to be right across the street from the Budget rental car center. There is also a Dollar rental car center just down the road, too. Since I use Budget quite frequently, I booked a rental car with them one way to Glacier airport. I then contacted AM/PM Limo and paid the fee over the telephone (only way to do it) to reserve my spot.
SO, we had to be at Calgary airport for transfer at 8AM. We arrived without incident and was greeted by the AM/PM Limo representative at the airport. He was a nice man (for the life of me I can’t remember his name!!!) who helped us with our luggage and told us that it would be just us for the ride down to Glacier. The van was clean.
We did stop at Horton’s on the way down for lunch to break up the 4 hour drive. They had timbits, tiny donut holes which I had never seen with jelly in the middle.
We made it to East Glacier about an hour earlier than expected. The Budget Rental Car center is inside a souvenir store. I had to ask for help at the counter and once someone came to help it was the easiest and quickest rental car check in I’ve ever experienced. I wish they were all like that. I was upgraded to a Jeep from a car, which I didn’t mind since Chris is so tall.
We first stopped at the Glacier Park Lodge since it is such an old hotel just to see its beauty.
Then, we started towards Two Medicine. When we arrived at the entrance, there was a long line. We stopped a passing park ranger to ask why. He said that due to the western half of the park being closed because of the wildfires, many of the visitors were coming to the eastern side. Due to overcrowding, it was causing closures. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait long and we just did a circle and drove back out of the Two Medicine area of the park.
I had read that one of the must dos for any trip to Glacier National Park was a stop at Park Cafe. We stopped at the small cafe and walked into the restaurant where we quickly were unsure if we had made the right decision. The staff seemed to have no clue what they were doing, there were many dirty tables, and the other visitors even commented on how long it took for just a piece of pie. Just when we were about to change our mind someone came to take our order. We order a couple of pieces of pie with ice cream. When they were brought to us one was wrong so we ended up with an extra piece so it ended up being great! The pie is pretty expensive, but it was pretty delicious, I think the apple was my favorite. Don’t forget to check out the souvenir store next door.
Then we were off to the Many Glacier Hotel where we would spend the next 2 nights. I was a little worried about staying here but you can see how much I liked it here. This historic hotel that actually sits inside Glacier National Park sells out rather quickly so make sure you book ahead. If you are having trouble finding a place to stay, here are some other places to stay in the East Glacier area.
We booked (in advance) the Grinnel Glacier boat tour and hike. It began at 8 in the morning and we returned about 4 in the afternoon. That evening we had dinner at the hotel and looked for bears on the nearby mountains.
We started the day early trying to beat the other early risers to the Logan Pass area (which we did!).
The first trail of the day was the Highline Pass where I did the first mile in (the good, steep part!) then I turned around.
After I got warmed up, I made my way up the Hidden Lake trail. I think it is one of my favorite trails EVER!!!!! Not only did I see wildlife, but the mountain views were spectacular and the flowers along the trail looked like they were planted there just for the visitors! If I had to choose one trail for you to go on, this would be it.
Due to the western half of the park being closed, I didn’t get to finish my route as I had planned. Instead, we had to back track and take Highway 2 around the park to get to Whitefish where we were staying for the evening.
We loved the town of Whitefish. We window shopped in the souvenir and antique stores and ate a LOT! There are so many delicious, fresh places to eat. We recommend eating at Buffalo Cafe, Loulas, Mama Blancas, and Jersey Boys Pizzeria.
We stayed at the Lodge at Whitefish Lake which is just outside of the downtown area but on the lake. If you are looking for a hotel in the downtown area, I suggest the Firebrand Hotel.
The trip is over. 🙁 We gathered our luggage and head towards the airport. We find that the smoke is the worst we have seen in the Glacier area thus far. We could smell the smoke in the small airport, too. We were confused on how to check in our rental car considering the rental car company didn’t open until 8 in the morning and we need to check it in an hour before that. Luckily, we were given an envelope with an explanation to gather the mileage, the parking place number, and you just place the keys in the box at the counter. It was so simple, but we had never done it before.
Overall, it was a great Banff to Glacier National Park road trip.
We stayed at the following hotels during our trip and we recommend them all – the Fairmont Palliser in Calgary, Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, Many Glacier Hotel, and Lodge at Whitefish Lake.
We did most of our activities independently but if you’d like to join a tour, we recommend Get Your Guide.
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